What to see in Old Quebec: A Historian’s Guide to North America’s Fortified Gem
A rich tapestry of history awaits you when you discover Old Quebec for the first or second time. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and the only fortified city north of Mexico. Step back in time as you explore cobbled streets, towering ramparts, and charming squares. As a history specialist, we’re here to guide you through the captivating Lower Town, the beating heart of Old Quebec. Make sure to plan a good chunk of time while in Quebec City no matter when you visit. You can also check out the best time to visit Quebec here so you can best enjoy it.
Discover Old Quebec: Exploring Lower Town
Lower Town, nestled along the majestic St. Lawrence River, was the birthplace of Quebec City. Founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, it served as a vital trading post. Here, you’ll find a concentration of historical significance and vibrant energy.
Place Royale: Quebec City’s Cradle
Begin your journey at Place Royale, the cradle of French civilization in North America. Imagine bustling marketplaces and colonial merchants as you admire the historic buildings flanking the square. Don’t miss the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church, the oldest stone church in North America. As well, there is the Musée de la Place-Royale which brings Quebec City’s founding story to life.
Walk Down to Lower Town, Quebec’s Oldest Part
From Montmorency Park, you’ll descend the Côte de la Montagne. This was the first road to connect Upper and Lower Town. In 1615, Champlain ordered the construction of a ‘small path to climb the mountain with ease.'”
Discover Old Quebec, Going Down the Hill:
As you go down the hill, you’ll notice a large cross marking the site of Quebec’s first cemetery. Here, you’ll find the graves of men from Champlain’s original expedition of 1608. This cemetery was used until 1687. Just opposite the cross are the Breakneck Stairs. Follow them down to Sous-le-Fort Street, named for its location beneath the old Fort St. Louis. When the stairs were first built, settlers used them to drive cattle and sheep, until this practice was prohibited by the Sovereign Council.
Arriving at Place Royale:
Historical Significance of Place Royale:
“It was right here at Place Royale, on the very spot now occupied by the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church, that Samuel de Champlain established the first settlement in 1608. The original Habitation consisted of three buildings surrounded by a wooden palisade and a moat that could only be crossed by a drawbridge. The first summer of 1608 was spent building the Habitation. Those who weren’t staying for the winter departed for France on September 18th. The only Europeans to spend the winter of 1608 in North America were a small group of Englishmen at Jamestown, Virginia, and the 28 Frenchmen of Québec. Unfortunately, only eight of the 28 men survived that winter. They were afraid of an Indian attack, but it was disease, specifically scurvy caused by a lack of Vitamin C, and the harsh winter that claimed many lives. The isolation and the cold drove a few of the men mad.”
A Near Disaster: Duval’s Treason:
The settlement was only a few years old when a traitor nearly destroyed it. Jean Duval, a locksmith, had a plan to eliminate Champlain and give control of the settlement to the Basque fishermen, who needed it to control the rich fishing grounds in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Basques were willing to pay handsomely for such a betrayal.
Duval was greedy enough to cheat one of his fellow conspirators at a card game, and the angry conspirator revealed Duval’s plot to Champlain’s officers. The conspirators were quickly arrested, except for Duval. His head was cut off, placed on a spike, and displayed atop the palisade as a warning to traitors.
Place Royale: A Hub of Activity
During the Ancien Régime, Place Royale served the same functions as public squares in countless French towns. It was a bustling marketplace where people from the countryside could sell their fresh produce, including vegetables, fruits, blueberries, honey, cream, maple syrup, and more, to the townspeople. When new laws were passed by the Governor or decrees issued by the King of France, they were publicly read out to the assembled population in the square.
Public Punishment and Fire Safety
Unfortunately, Place Royale was also the site of public punishment. Criminals were pilloried, tied to a post and whipped, with the severity of the punishment depending on the crime. Many of the most stringent laws in Québec during the Ancien Régime were related to fire. Fire was a constant threat in a town with numerous wooden buildings packed closely together. The risk was especially high in winter due to hot chimneys and the difficulty of obtaining water from frozen rivers. From 1676 to 1759, anyone caught smoking in the streets of Québec could face pillorying.
The Bust of Louis XIV
The original bust of Louis XIV was placed in the square by Intendant Champigny in 1686. However, a fire destroyed the bust in 1713. The current bronze bust is a replica of the original and was a gift from the people of France to the people of Québec in 1928.
Social Distinctions in New France
The houses around Place Royale were occupied by wealthy merchants and government officials known as gentilhommes. Social distinctions in New France were rigid. Only gentilhommes wore powdered wigs, while other men tied their hair back in pigtails. Gentilhommes also wore silk stockings and buckled shoes, while peasants and artisans wore leggings and either wooden shoes or moccasins.
Upper Town vs. Lower Town
Traditionally, Upper Town was the administrative and religious center of New France, while Place Royale and the surrounding Lower Town were the hubs of economic activity. Wealthy merchants built their homes near the docks and warehouses of the region.
Some of the buildings in Lower Town
- Galerie Maheu Couillard: Located in a restored house behind the church on Sous-le-Fort Street, this gallery, operated by the City of Québec, showcases the work of local artists.
- Batterie Royale: At the end of Sous-le-Fort Street, you’ll find the Batterie Royale, a restored military defense system erected in 1691.
- Funiculaire: Another landmark at the end of Sous-le-Fort Street is the Funiculaire, an elevator that takes you up the cliff to Place d’Armes.
- Chevalier House: Located at the end of Notre Dame Street, this provincial museum, along with the adjoining de la Garonne House and Frerot House, displays 300 years of Québec furniture. Most of the pieces on display are everyday household items crafted by the people who used them. Québec furniture is known for its practical and simple design, often using pine wood. One interesting example is the banc du queteux or “tramp’s bed,” a bench that can be opened up into a bed for unexpected guests. You can see one on the first floor of the museum. Visitors are often surprised by the small size of the furniture, as people 200 years ago were generally smaller due to poorer diets.
Notre-Dame-des-Victoires: A Symbol of Resilience
Originally known as l’Église de l’Enfant Jésus (The Church of the Infant Jesus), the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Chapel has a rich history intertwined with the city’s defense. Its name was changed to Notre-Dame-de-la-Victoire in 1690. This is to commemorate Governor Frontenac’s successful defense of Québec City against Admiral Phipps’s naval attack.
In 1711, the church’s name changes to Notre-Dame-des-Victoires after another failed attempt by Admiral Walker to capture the city. Walker’s fleet is lost in a storm in the St. Lawrence River, a victory attributed to divine intervention.
Inside the church, you’ll find paintings depicting both Phipps’s defeat and the destruction of Walker’s fleet. It serves as a visual reminders of Québec City’s resilience.
The church is tragically destroyed by artillery fire in 1759 during the British siege of Québec City. However, it is faithfully restored in 1765, preserving its historical significance and architectural beauty.
Beyond the Ramparts: A Feast for the Senses
Lower Town is a haven for foodies. Indulge in a delightful crepe at a charming sidewalk cafe . Try some local fresh seafood at a waterfront restaurant with breathtaking river views. Don’t leave without trying a traditional Quebec dish like “poutine” (fries, cheese curds, and gravy) or tourtiere. For dessert don’t forget pouding chomeur or a slice of decadent sugar pie.
Must-See Attractions in Lower Town:
- Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church
- Musée de la Place-Royale
- Murals of Quebec City
- Rue du Petit Petit Champlain (quaint pedestrian street with shops and cafes)
- Funicular
Pro-tip
Take the funiculaire to get back UP to Upper Town when you visit old Quebec
Planning Your Visit to Lower Town
- Walking is the best way to explore Lower Town. The streets are pedestrian-friendly and offer a chance to soak in the historical ambiance.
- Comfortable shoes are a must. The terrain can be uneven with cobblestones and hills.
- What to pack to visit Quebec?
An unforgettable journey through history awaits in Lower Town, Quebec City. This vibrant district promises a captivating experience for history buffs and casual visitors alike. Make sure to take the time to discover Old Quebec City when you visit Quebec.
